History Lives in Mexico

This is going to be hard to describe. music resounds from every house, live or recorded, echos of young voices ring through the streets singing carols, and songs to the Virgin of Guadalupe, whose apparition is celebrated tomorrow; she is the Patroness of Mexico. Our parish acted out the whole story, from the reign of Moctezuma, the arrival of the Spaniards, the first evangelizers, the apparition of the Virgin to Juan Diego, and more. The people stood patiently in the light misty rain, watching the children dressed as Aztec dancers and warriors, doing ancient dances for Moctezuma, then lining up to be baptized. No make up is needed, these faces we see everyday are the same faces that can be found on the ancient archeological bas reliefs all over the country. There were the usual pauses and running back and forth when microphones refused to cooperate, Rube Goldberg is alive and well down here.

This morning, at the early mass, trucks arrived adorned with many balloons, preceded by a drum corps, and folks carrying flags, flowers, images for blessing. A cadre of children were at the door, dressed as the ancient antagonists, Moors and Christians. The dance portraying that old battle in Spain still exists here. Pilgrims arrive from all parts of the country, passing through on their way to the shrine of Guadalupe in Mexico City where The Virgin appeared. They are made welcome and given hospitality wherever they stop for the night. Highways are crowded with trucks and other vehicles adorned with her picture, flowers, flags, slogans, all on the way to Mexico City. The paper announced that a stretch of highway would be closed to regular traffic to protect the pilgrims. Yes, there is separation of Church and State here, but the lines get pretty blurry sometimes.

We had a few short hours to rest after the bishop's mass at noon, then this evening we participated in the "Pastorela" at the Parque Espana where we take classes and do our exercise. The deacon portrayed Saint Joseph, and taught one of his original songs, a Christmas Lullaby. I was asked at the last minute, to accompany a lady from Spain who would sing a Spanish carol. They wanted castanets for background. I did. The Pastorela is a traditional portrayal of the Christmas story with a delightful mix of shepherds, angels, devils and the main characters of course. We even had a live baby tonight for Baby Jesus, and Mary arrived riding on a real donkey!

There is no way to describe the sense of happy expectation, hustle and bustle, rejoicing and celebration that is leading up to the celebration of the Nativity here. And very, very little of it has anything to do with commercialism. We see more Christmas trees being sold, many still the living kind. Christmas lights appear here and there, sometimes in the most unlikely places, and children's choirs will appear in mufflers and wool hats, to sing carols, as if ready for a heavy snow. The gift giving is more appropriately delayed until Epiphany, when the Kings arrived to give gifts to the Baby Jesus.

I'll try to write some more on all this, but each day is so full of activity and delightful happenings, sometimes they just blend altogether. Tomorrow we're off with the bishop to a nearby town, to celebrate their Saints Fiesta, The Virgin of Guadalupe. More later, I'm too tired to see straight just now. Just to let you know the really special atmosphere just now, our wild Music Lovers in back, whose rock and roll usually blasts the leaves off the trees, are playing "Ave Maria" and other nice pios songs tonight! Astounding!