Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Guided Tour of a Restored Church

Well, we just bopped in to pass a few minutes we had but the young priest at the local shrine of OL of Guadalupe started explaining the huge restoration project going on there. The Church of La Concordia, the official local shrine for Guadalupe, was built by the Spanish in 1730, but as recently as the 1930's layers of ghastly paint covered the marvelous statues, pillars, retablos, and other marvelous elements.

Now a huge restoration is going on. He showed us the many artesans workshops, carpentry shop, "hospital" where some of the images are even laid out on stretchers for care and treatment. One poor soul had no head atop his black monk's robe. When I inquired solicitously, I was informed, oh, the head is over there. And there it was, across the room, eyes wide with alarm. There was an unbelievable restored wooden, painted statue of St. Peter in the large cape. But saying it was "painted" is akin to saying the Taj Mahal is a grave. Red background, delicate feathery tracings and designs, brilliant flowers, on and on. Each statue costs about $30,000 (pesos) or $3,000 to restore. There are some with the back flat and unfinished. These adorn the retablos. Some are cut from one piece of wood.

The second reproduction ever done of the original miraculous image of Guadalupe is there. Years past, it was fancied up with glittery, dime store stares, held in place with studs puncturing the canvas! AYYY! The Philistines are still with us! Now perfectly restored, and very fine it is. These old images and statues are nearly medieval in their lively, human expressions and non-sentimentality.

At one time there were 30 artesans working day and night. Now there was just one artist working in restoration, and others working on walls and the front courtyard. They have uncovered the original paint as much as possible, replacing when needed. There are symbols in gold leaf that are from the early codicils, hieroglyphics from the Nahuatl records. One indicated "He who speaks with authority."

The story of this restoration would make a marvelous documentary. Anyone out there? The young priest knows all the history and stories.